Toward the top of the Cumberland grade, about two hours before sundown I came to a log house, and as I had been warned that all the broad plateau of the range for forty or fifty miles was desolate, I began thus early to seek a lodging for the night. Knocking at the door, a motherly old lady replied to my request for supper and bed and breakfast, that I was welcome to the best she had, provided that I had the necessary change to pay my bill. When I told her that unfortunately I had nothing smaller than a five-dollar greenback, she said, "Well, I'm sorry, but cannot afford to keep you. Not long ago ten soldiers came across from North Carolina, and in the morning they offered a greenback that I could n't change, and so I got nothing for keeping them, which I was ill able to afford." "Very well," I said, "I'm glad you spoke of this beforehand, for I would rather go hungry than impose on your hospitality."
As I turned to leave, after bidding her good-bye, she, evidently pitying me for my tired looks, called me back and asked me if I would like a drink of milk. This I gladly accepted, thinking that perhaps I might not be successful in getting any other nourishment for a day or two. Then I inquired whether there were any more houses on the road, nearer than North Carolina, forty or fifty miles away. "Yes," she said, "it's only two miles to the next house, but beyond that there are no houses that I know of except empty ones whose owners have been killed or driven away during the war."
Arriving at the last house, my knock at the door was answered by a bright, good-natured, good-looking little woman, who in reply to my request for a night's lodging and food, said, "Oh, I guess so. I think you can stay. Come in and my husband." "But I must first warn you," I said, "that I have nothing smaller to offer you than a five-dollar bill for my entertainment. I don't want you to think that I am trying to impose on your hospitality."
She then called her husband, a blacksmith, who was at work at his forge. He came
out, hammer in hand, bare-breasted, sweaty, bell grimed, and covered with shaggy
black hair. In reply to his wife's statement, that this young man wished to
stop over night, he quickly replied, "That's all right; tell him to go into
the house." He was turning to go back to his shop, when his wife added, "But
he says he hasn't any change to pay. He has nothing smaller than a five-dollar
bill." Hesitating only a moment, he turned on his heel and said, "Tell him
to go into the house. A man that comes right out like that beforehand is welcome
to eat my bread."
When he came in after his hard day's work and sat down to dinner, he solemnly asked a blessing on the frugal meal, consisting solely of corn bread and bacon. Then, looking across the table at me, he said, "Young man, what are you doing down here?" I replied that I was looking at plants. "Plants? What kind of plants?" I said, "Oh, all kinds; grass, weeds, flowers, trees, mosses, ferns, -- almost everything that grows is interesting to me."
"Well, young man," he queried, "you mean to say that you are not employed by
the Government on some private business?" "No," I said, "I am not employed by
any one except just myself. I love all kinds of plants, and I came down here
to these Southern States to get acquainted with as many of them as possible." "You
look like a strong-minded man," he replied, "and surely you are able to do something
better than wander over the country and look at weeds and blossoms. These are
hard times, and real work is required of every man that is able. Picking up blossoms
doesn't seem to be a man's work at all in any kind of times."
To this I replied, "You are a believer in the Bible, are you not?" "Oh, yes." "Well,
you know Solomon was a strong-minded man, and he is generally believed to have
been the very wisest man the world ever saw, and yet he considered it was worth
while to study plants; not only to go and pick them up as I am doing, but to
study them; and you know we are told that he wrote a book about plants, not only
of the great cedars of Lebanon, but of little bits of things growing in the cracks
of the walls.
"Therefore, you see that Solomon differed very much more from you than from me
in this matter. I'll warrant you he had many a long ramble in the mountains of
Judea, and had he been a Yankee he would likely have visited every weed in the
land. And again, do you not remember that Christ told his disciples to 'consider
the lilies how they grow,' and compared their beauty with Solomon in all his
glory? Now, whose advice am I to take, yours or Christ's? Christ says, 'Consider
the lilies.' You say, 'Don't consider them. It isn't worth while for any strong-minded
This evidently satisfied him, and he acknowledged that he had never thought of blossoms in that way before. He repeated again and again that I must be a very strong-minded man, and admitted that no doubt I was fully justified in picking up blossoms. He then told me that although the war was over, walking across the Cumberland Mountains still was far from safe on account of small bands of guerrillas who were in hiding along the roads, and earnestly entreated me to turn back and not to think of walking so far as the Gulf of Mexico until the country became quiet and orderly once more.
I replied that I had no fear, that I had but very little to lose, and that nobody was likely to think it worth while to rob me; that, anyhow, I always had good luck. In the morning he repeated the warning and entreated me to turn back, which never for a moment interfered with my resolution to pursue my glorious walk.