the john muir exhibit - writings - features of the proposed yosemite national park
Features of the Proposed Yosemite National Park
The Century Magazine,
Vol. XL. September, 1890. No. 5
Big Tuolumne Meadows with Mount Dana and Mount Gibbs,
from near the Soda Springs.
THE
upper Tuolumne Valley is
the widest, smoothest, most
serenely spacious, and in every
way the most delightful summer
pleasure park in all the high
Sierra. And since it is connected with Yosemite by
two good trails, and
with the levels of civilization by a broad, well-graded
carriage-road that passes between
Yosemite and Mount Hoffman, it is also the most
accessible. It lies in the heart of the high Sierra
at a height of from 8500 to 9000 feet above
the level of the sea, at a distance of less than
ten miles from the northeastern boundary of
the Yosemite reservation. It is bounded on
the southwest by the gray, jagged, picturesque
Cathedral range, which extends in a south-easterly
direction from Cathedral Peak to
Mount Lyell and Mount Ritter, the culminating peaks
of the grand mass of icy
mountains that form the "crown of the Sierra";
on the northeast, by a similar range or spur,
the highest peak of which is Mount Conness;
on the east, by the smooth, majestic masses of
Mount Dana, Mount Gibbs, Mount Ord, and
others, nameless as yet, on the axis of the
main range; and on the west by a heaving,
billowy mass of glacier-polished rocks, over
which the towering masses of Mount Hoffman are seen.
Down through the open sunny
levels of the valley flows the bright Tuolumne
River, fresh from many a glacial fountain in
the wild recesses of the peaks, the highest of
which are the glaciers that lie on the north
sides of Mount Lyell and Mount McClure.
Along the river are a series of beautiful
glacier meadows stretching, with but little
interruption, from the lower end of the valley
to its head, a distance of about twelve miles.
These form charming sauntering grounds from
which the glorious mountains may be enjoyed
as they look down in divine serenity over the
majestic swaths of forest that clothe their bases.
Narrow strips of pine woods cross the meadow-carpet
from side to side, and it is somewhat
roughened here and there by groves, moraine
boulders, and dead trees brought down from
the heights by avalanches; but for miles and
miles it is so smooth and level that a hundred
horsemen may ride abreast over it.
The main lower portion of the meadow is
about four miles long and from a quarter to
half a mile wide; but the width of the valley
is, on an average, about eight miles. Tracing
the river we find that it forks a mile above the
Soda Springs, which are situated on the north
bank opposite the point where the Cathedral
trail comes in--the main fork turning southward to
Mount Lyell, the other eastward to
Mount Dana and Mount Gibbs. Along both
forks strips of meadow extend almost to their
heads. The most beautiful portions of the
meadows are spread over lake basins, which
have been filled up by deposits from the river.
A few of these river-lakes still exist, but they
are now shallow and are rapidly approaching
extinction. The sod in most places is exceedingly
fine and silky and free from rough weeds
and bushes; while charming flowers abound,
especially gentians, dwarf daisies, ivesias, and
the pink bells of dwarf vaccinium. On the
banks of the river and its tributaries Cassiope
and Bryanthus may be found where the sod
curls over in bosses, and about piles of boulders.
The principal grass of these meadows is
a delicate Calamagrostis with very slender
leaves, and when it is in flower the ground
seems to be covered with a faint purple mist,
the stems of the spikelets being so fine that
they are almost invisible, and offer no appreciable
resistance in walking through them.
Along the edges of the meadows beneath the
pines and throughout the greater part of the
valley tall ribbon-leaved grasses grow in abundance,
chiefly Bromus, Triticum, and Agrostis.
In October the nights are frosty, and then
the meadows at sunrise, when every leaf is
laden with crystals, are a fine sight. The days
are warm and calm, and bees and butterflies
continue to waver and hum about the late-blooming
flowers until the coming of the
snow, usually late in November. Storm then
follows storm in close succession, burying the
meadows to a depth of from ten to twenty feet,
while magnificent avalanches descend through
the forests from the laden heights, depositing
huge piles of snow mixed with uprooted trees
and boulders. In the open sunshine the snowy
lasts until June, but the new season's vegetation
is not generally in bloom until late in July.
Perhaps the best time to visit this valley is-in
August. The snow is then melted from the
woods, and the meadows are dry and warm,
while the Weather is mostly sunshine, reviving
and exhilarating in quality; and the few clouds
that rise and the showers they yield are only
enough for freshness, fragrance, and beauty.
Tuolumne Meadows, looking south. Unicorn Peak and Cathedral Peak.
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The groves about the Soda Springs are favorite camping-grounds
on account of the
pleasant-tasting, ice-cold water of the springs,
charged with carbonic acid, and because of the
fine views of the mountains across the meadow--the
Glacier Monument, Cathedral Peak,
Cathedral Spires, Unicorn Peak, and their many
nameless companions rising in grand beauty
above a noble swath of forest that is growing
on the left lateral moraine of the ancient Tuolumne
Glacier, which, broad and deep and far-reaching, exerted vast
influence on the scenery
of this portion of the Sierra. But there are fine
camping-grounds all along the meadows, and
one may move from grove to grove every day
all summer enjoying a fresh home and finding enough
to satisfy every roving desire for
change.
There are four capital excursions to be
made from here--to the summits of Mounts
Dana and Lyell; to Mono Lake and the volcanoes, through
Bloody Cañon; and to the
great Tuolumne Cañon as far as the foot of
the
main cascades. All of these are glorious, and
sure to be crowded with joyful and exciting
experiences; but perhaps none of them will be
remembered with keener delight than the days
spent in sauntering in the broad velvet lawns
by the river, sharing the pure air and light
with the trees and mountains, and gaining
something of the peace of nature in the majestic
solitude.
View of Cathedral Peak from the west, above Lake Tenaya.
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View of a part of the Grand Cascades, Big Tuolumne Cañon.
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The excursion to the top of Mount Dana is a
very easy one; for though the mountain is 13,000
feet high, the ascent from the west side is
so gentle and smooth that one may ride a mule
to the very summit. Across many a busy stream,
from meadow to meadow, lies your flowery
way, the views all sublime; and they are
seldom hidden by irregular foregrounds. As you
gradually ascend, new mountains come into
sight, enriching the landscape; peak rising
above peak with its individual architecture,
and its masses of fountain snow in endless
variety of position and light
and shade. Now your attention is turned to the moraines,
sweeping in beautiful curves
from the hollows and cañons
of the mountains, regular in
form as railroad embankments, or to the glossy waves
and pavements of granite
rising here and there from
the flowery sod, polished a
thousand years ago and still
shining. Towards the base
of the mountain you note
the dwarfing of the trees,
until at a height of about
11,000 feet you find patches
of the tough white-barked
pine pressed so flat by the ten
or twenty feet of snow piled
upon them every winter for
centuries that you may walk
over them as if walking on a
shaggy rug. And, if curious
about such things, you may
discover specimens of this
hardy mountaineer of a tree,
not more than four feet high
and about as many inches in
diameter at the ground, that
are from two hundred to four
hundred years old, and are
still holding on bravely to
life, making the most of their
short summers, shaking their
tasseled needles in the breeze
right cheerily, drinking the
thin sunshine, and maturing
their fine purple cones as if
they meant to live forever.
The general view from the
summit is one of the most extensive and sublime to
be found in all the range. To the
eastward you gaze far out over
the hot desert plains and mountains of the
"Great Basin," range beyond range extending
with soft outlines blue and purple in the distance.
More than six thousand feet below you lies
Lake Mono, overshadowed by the mountain on
which you stand. It is ten miles in diameter
from north to south and fourteen from east to
west, but appears nearly circular, lying bare in
the treeless desert like a disk of burnished
metal, though at times it is swept by storm-winds
from the mountains and streaked with
foam. To the south of the lake there is a range
of pale-gray volcanoes, now extinct, and though
the highest of them rise nearly two thousand
feet above the lake, you can look down into
their well-defined circular, cup-like craters,
from which, a comparatively short time ago,
ashes and cinders were showered over the
surrounding plains and glacier-laden mountains.
To the westward the landscape is made up
of gray glaciated rocks and ridges, separated
by a labyrinth of cañons and darkened with
lines and broad fields of forest, while small
lakes and meadows dot the foreground. Northward
and southward the jagged peaks and
towers that are marshaled along the axis of
the range are seen in all their glory, crowded
together in some places like trees in groves,
making landscapes of wild, extravagant, bewildering
magnificence, yet calm and silent as
the scenery of the sky.
Some eight glaciers are in sight. One of
these is the Dana Glacier on the northeast side
of the mountain, Iying at the foot of a precipice
about a thousand feet high, with a lovely
pale-green lake in the general basin a little below
the glacier. This is one of the many
small shrunken remnants of the vast glacial
system of the Sierra that once filled all the
hollows and valleys of the mountains and
covered all the lower ridges below the immediate
summit fountains, flowing to right and left
away from the axis of the range, lavishly fed
by the snows of the glacial period.
In the excursion to Mount Lyell the immediate
base of the mountain is easily reached on
horseback by following the meadows along
the river. Turning to the southward above the
forks of the river you enter the Lyell branch
of the valley, which is narrow enough and
deep enough to be called a cañon. It is
about
eight miles long and from 2000 to 3000 feet
deep. The flat meadow bottom is from about
300 to 200 yards wide, with gently curved
margins about 50 yards wide, from which rise
the simple massive walls of gray granite at an
angle of about thirty-three degrees, mostly
timbered with a light growth of pine and
streaked in many places with avalanche channels.
Towards the upper end of the cañon
the grand Sierra crown comes into sight,
forming a sublime and finely balanced picture,
framed by the massive cañon walls. In
the foreground you have the purple meadow
fringed with willows; in the middle distance,
huge swelling bosses of granite that form
the base of the general mass of the mountain, with
fringing lines of dark woods marking
the lower curves, but smoothly snow-clad
except in the autumn.
The south side of Mount Lyell.
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There is a good camping-ground on the
east side of the river about a mile above. A
fine cascade comes down over the cañon
wall in telling style and makes fine camp
music. At one place near the top careful
climbing is necessary, but it is not so dangerous
or difficult as to deter any climber of
ordinary strength and skill, while the views
from the summit are glorious. To the northward
are Mammoth Mountain, Mounts Gibbs,
Dana, Warren, Conness, and many others
unnumbered and unnamed; to the southeast
the indescribably wild and jagged range of
Mount Ritter and the Minarets; southwestward stretches
the dividing ridge between the
North Fork of the San Joaquin and the
Merced, uniting with the Obelisk or Merced
group of peaks that form the main fountains
of the Illilouette branch of the Merced River;
and to the northwestward extends the Cathedral
spur. All these spurs, like distinct ranges,
meet at your feet. Therefore you look over
them mostly in the direction of their extension
and their peaks seem to be massed and crowded
together in bewildering combinations; while
immense amphitheaters cañons and
subordinate masses, with their wealth of lakes,
glaciers, and snow-fields, maze and cluster between
them. In making the ascent in June or October
the glacier is easily crossed, for then its snow
mantle is smooth or mostly melted off. But in
midsummer the climbing is exceedingly tedious,
because the snow is then weathered into curious
and beautiful blades, sharp and slender, and set
on edge in a leaning position. They lean towards
the head of the glacier, and extend across
from side to side in regular order in a direction
at right angles to the direction of greatest
declivity, the distance between the crests being
about two or three feet, and the depth of
the troughs between them about three feet.
No more interesting problem is ever presented
to the mountaineer than a walk over a glacier
thus sculptured and adorned.
Lyell Glacier, from the edge of the Great Fissure.
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The Lyell Glacier is about a mile wide
and less than a mile long, but presents,
nevertheless, all the more characteristic
features of large, river-like glaciers--moraines,
earth-bands, blue-veins, crevasses
etc., while the streams that issue from it
are turbid with rock-mud, showing its
grinding action on its bed. And it is all
the more interesting since it is the highest
and most enduring remnant of the great Tuolumne Glacier,
whose traces are still distinct
fifty miles away, and whose influence on the
landscape was so profound. The McClure
Glacier, once a tributary of the Lyell, is much
smaller. Eighteen years ago I set a series of
stakes in it to determine its rate of motion
which towards the end of summer, in the
middle of the glacier, I found to be a little
over an inch in twenty-four hours.
The trip to Mono from the Soda Springs
can be made in a day, but Bloody Cañon will
be found rough for animals. The scenery of
the cañon, however, is wild and rich, and
many
days may profitably be spent around the shores
of the lake and out on its islands and about
the volcanoes.
Looking down on Lake Tenaya.
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In making the trip down the Big Tuolumne
Cañon animals may be led
as far as a small,
grassy, forested lake basin that lies below the
crossing of the Virginia Creek trail. And
from this point any one accustomed to walk on
earthquake boulders carpeted with cañon
chaparral, can easily go down the cañon
as far
as the big cascades and return to camp in one
day. Many, however, are not able to do this,
and it is far better to go leisurely, prepared to
camp anywhere, and enjoy the marvelous
grandeur of the place.
Tuolumne River near the head of the Great Cañon.
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The cañon begins near the lower end of the
meadows and extends to the Hetch Hetchy
Valley, a distance of about eighteen miles,
though it will seem much longer to any one
who scrambles through it. It is from 1200 to
about 5000 feet deep, and is comparatively
narrow, but there are several fine, roomy,
park-like openings in it, and throughout its
whole extent Yosemite features are displayed
on a grand scale--domes, El Capitan rocks,
gables, Sentinels, Royal Arches, glacier points,
Cathedral Spires, etc. There is even a Half
Dome among its wealth of rock forms, though
less sublime and beautiful than the Yosemite
Half Dome. It also contains falls and cascades innumerable.
The sheer falls, except
when the snow is melting in early spring,
are quite small in volume as compared with
those of Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy, but
many of them are very beautiful, and in any
other country would be regarded as great
wonders. But it is the cascades or sloping
falls on the main river that are the crowning
glory of the cañon, and these in volume, extent,
and variety surpass those of any other
cañon in the Sierra. The most showy and interesting
of the cascades are mostly in the
upper part of the cañon, above the point
where
Cathedral Creek; and Hoffman Creek enter.
For miles the river is one wild, exulting, on-rushing
mass of snowy purple bloom, spreading over
glacial waves of granite without any definite
channel, and through avalanche taluses, gliding in
silver plumes, dashing and foaming
through huge boulder-dams, leaping high into
the air in glorious wheel-like whirls, tossing
from side to side, doubling, glinting, singing
in glorious exuberance of mountain energy.
Every one who is anything of a mountaineer should
go on through the entire length
of the cañon, coming out by Hetch Hetchy.
There is not a dull step all the way. With wide
variations it is a Yosemite Valley from end to
end.
Entrance to Hetch Hetchy Valley from Smith Trail.
THE HETCH HETCHY VALLEY.
M
OST people who visit Yosemite are apt to
regard it as an exceptional creation, the only
valley of its kind in the world. But nothing
in Nature stands alone. She is not so poor as
to have only one of anything. The explorer
in the Sierra and elsewhere finds many Yosemites
that differ not more than one tree differs
from another of the same species. They occupy
the same relative positions on the mountain
flanks, were formed by the same forces in the
same kind of granite, and have similar sculpture,
waterfalls, and vegetation. The Hetch
Hetchy Valley has long been known as the
Tuolumne Yosemite. It is said to have been
discovered by Joseph Screech, a hunter, in
1850, a year before the discovery of the great
Merced Yosemite. It lies in a northwesterly
direction from Yosemite, at a distance of about
twenty miles, and is easily accessible to mounted
travelers by a trail that leaves the Big Oak
Flat road at Bronson's Meadows, a few miles
below Crane Flat. But by far the best way to
it for those who have useful limbs is across the
divide direct from Yosemite.
Leaving the valley by Indian
Cañon or Fall Cañon, you cross
the dome-paved basin of Yosemite Creek, then bear
to the
left around the head fountains of the South Fork
of the Tuolumne to the summit of the Big Tuolumne Cañon,
a few miles
above the head of Hetch Hetchy. Here
you will find a glorious view. Immediately
beneath you, at a depth of more than 4000
feet, you see a beautiful ribbon of level a
ground, with a silver thread in the middle
of it, and green or yellow according to the
time of year. That ribbon is a strip of
meadow, and the silver thread is the main
Tuolumne River. The opposite wall of the
cañon rises in precipices, steep and angular,
or
with rounded brows like those of Yosemite, and
from this wall as a base extends a fine wilderness
of mountains, rising dome above dome, ridge
above ridge, to a group of snowy peaks on the
summit of the range. Of all this sublime congregation
of mountains Castle Peak is king:
robed with snow and light, dipping unnumbered
points and spires into the thin blue sky,
it maintains amid noble companions a perfect
and commanding individuality.
Kolána Rock, Hetch Hetchy Valley.
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You will not encounter much difficulty in
getting down into the cañon, for bear trails
may readily be found leading from the upper
feeding-grounds to the berry gardens and acorn
orchards of Hetch Hetchy, and when you
reach the river you have only to saunter by
its side a mile or two down the cañon before
you find yourself in the open valley. Looking
about you, you cannot fail to discover that
you are in a Yosemite valley. As the Merced
flows through Yosemite, so does the Tuolumne
through Hetch Hetchy. The bottom of Yosemite is about
4000 feet above sea level, the
bottom of Hetch Hetchy is about 3800 feet,
and in both the walls are of gray granite and
rise abruptly in precipices from a level bottom,
with but little debris along their bases. Furthermore
it was a home and stronghold of the
Tuolumne Indians, as Ahwahne was of the
grizzlies. Standing boldly forward from the
south wall near the lower end of the valley is
the rock Kolána, the outermost of a picturesque
group corresponding to the Cathedral
Rocks of Yosemite, and about the same height.
Facing Kolána on the north
side of the valley
is a rock about 1800 feet in height, which presents
a bare, sheer front like El Capitan, and over
its massive brow flows a stream that makes the
most graceful fall I have ever seen. Its Indian
name is Tu-ee-u-la-la, and no other, so far as
I have heard, has yet been given it. From the
brow of the cliff it makes a free descent of a
thousand feet and then breaks up into ragged,
foaming web of cascades among the boulders
of an earthquake talus. Towards the end of
summer it vanishes, because its head streams
do not reach back to the lasting snows of the
summits of the range, but in May and June it
is indescribably lovely. The only fall that I
know with which it may fairly be compared is
the Bridal Veil, but it excels even that fall in
peaceful, floating, swaying gracefulness. For
when we attentively observe the Bridal Veil,
even towards the middle of summer when its
waters begin to fail, we may discover, when
the winds blow aside the outer folds of spray
dense comet-shaped masses shooting through
the air with terrible energy; but from the top
of the cliff, where the Hetch Hetchy veil first
floats free, all the way to the bottom it is in
perfect repose. Again, the Bridal Veil is in a
shadow-haunted nook inaccessible to the main
wind currents of the valley, and has to depend
for many of its gestures on irregular, teasing
side currents and whirls, while Tu-ee-u-la-la,
being fully exposed on the open cliff, is sun
drenched all day, and is ever ready to yield
graceful compliance to every wind that blows.
Most people unacquainted with the behavior
of mountain streams fancy that when they escape
the bounds of their rocky channels and
launch into the air they at once lose all self-control
and tumble in confusion. On the contrary,
on no part of their travels do they manifest
more calm self-possession. Imagine yourself in
Hetch Hetchy. It is a sunny day in June, the
pines sway dreamily, and you are shoulder-deep in
grass and flowers. Looking across the
valley through beautiful open groves you see
a bare granite wall 1800 feet high rising
abruptly out of the green and yellow vegetation and
glowing with sunshine, and in front
of it the fall, waving like a downy scarf, silver
bright, burning with white sun-fire in every
fiber. In coming forward to the edge of the
tremendous precipice and taking flight a little
hasty eagerness appears, but this is speedily
hushed in divine repose. Now observe the
marvelous distinctness and delicacy of the
various kinds of sun-filled tissue into which
the waters are woven. They fly and float and
drowse down the face of that grand gray rock
in so leisurely and unconfused a manner that
you may examine their texture and patterns
as you would a piece of embroidery held in
the hand. It is a flood of singing air, water,
and sunlight woven into cloth that spirits
might wear.
The great Hetch Hetchy Fall, called Wa-páma
by the Tuolumnes, is on the same side
of the valley as the Veil, and so near it that
both may be seen in one view. It is about
1800 feet in height, and seems to be nearly
vertical when one is standing in front of it,
though it is considerably inclined. Its location
is similar to that of the Yosemite Fall,
but the volume of water is much greater. No
two falls could be more unlike than Wa-páma
and Tu-ee-u-la-la, the one thundering and beating
in a shadowy gorge, the other chanting in
deep, low tones and with no other shadows
about it than those of its own waters, pale-gray
mostly, and violet and pink delicately
graded. One whispers, "He dwells in peace,"
the other is the thunder of his chariot wheels
in power. This noble pair are the main falls
of the valley, though there are many small ones
essential to the perfection of the general harmony.
The wall above Wa-páma
corresponds, both
in outlines and in details of sculpture, with the
same relative portion of the Yosemite wall.
Near the Yosemite Fall the cliff has two conspicuous
benches extending in a horizontal
direction 500 and 1500 feet above the valley.
Two benches similarly situated, and timbered
in the same way, occur on the same relative
position on the Hetch Hetchy wall, and on
no other portion. The upper end of Yosemite is closed
by the great Half Dome, and
the upper end of Hetch Hetchy is closed
in the same way by a mountain rock. Both
occupy angles formed by the confluence of
two large glaciers that have long since vanished.
In front of this head rock the river
forks like the Merced in Yosemite. The right
fork as you ascend is the main Tuolumne, which
takes its rise in a glacier on the north side
of Mount Lyell and flows through the Big
Cañon. I have not traced the left fork to
its
highest source, but, judging from the general
trend of the ridges, it must be near Castle Peak.
Upon this left or North Fork there is a remarkably
interesting series of cascades, five in number, ranged along a
picturesque gorge, on the
edges of which we may saunter safely and
gain fine views of the dancing spray below.
The first is a wide-spreading fan of white, crystal-covered
water, half leaping half sliding over
a steep polished pavement, at the foot of which
it rests and sets forth clear and shining on its
final flow to the main river. A short distance
above the head of this cascade you discover
the second, which is as impressively wild and
beautiful as the first, and makes you sing
with it as though you were a part of it. It is
framed in deep rock walls that are colored yellow
and red with lichens, and fringed on the
jagged edges by live-oaks and sabine pines, and
at the bottom in damp nooks you may see ferns,
lilies, and azaleas.
Three or four hundred yards higher you
come to the third of the choir, the largest of
the five. It is formed of three smaller ones
inseparably combined, which sing divinely, and
make spray of the best quality for rainbows.
A short distance beyond this the gorge comes
to an end, and the bare stream, without any
definite channel, spreads out in a thin, silvery
sheet about 150 feet wide. Its waters are,
throughout almost its whole extent, drawn out in
overlapping folds of lace, thick sown with
diamond jets and sparks that give an exceedingly
rich appearance. Still advancing, you hear
a deep muffled booming, and you push eagerly
on through flowery thickets until the last of
the five appears through the foliage. The precipice
down which it thunders is fretted with
projecting knobs, forming polished keys upon
which the wild waters play.
The bottom of the valley is divided by a
low, glacier-polished bar of granite, the lower
portion being mostly meadow land, the upper
dry and sandy, and planted with fine Kellogg
oaks, which frequently attain a diameter of six
or seven feet. On the talus slopes the pines give
place to the mountain live-oak, which forms the
shadiest groves in the valley and the greatest
in extent. Their glossy foliage, warm yellow-green
and closely pressed, makes a kind of
ceiling, supported by bare gray trunks and
branches gnarled and picturesque. A few
specimens of the sugar pine and tamarack
pine are found in the valley, also the two
silver firs. The Douglas spruce and the libocedrus
attain noble dimensions in certain
favorable spots, and a few specimens of the
interesting Torreya Californica may be found
on the south side. The brier-rose occurs in
large patches, with tall, spiky mints and arching
grasses. On the meadows lilies, larkspurs
and lupines of several species are abundant, and
in some places reach above one's head. Rock-ferns
of rare beauty fringe and rosette the walls
from top to bottom--Pellaea densa, P. mucronata
and P. Bridgesii, Cheilanthes gracillima, Allosorus, etc.
Adiantum pedatum occurs in a
few mossy corners that get spray from the falls.
Woodwardia radicans and
Asplenium felix-faemina are the tallest ferns of the valley--six
feet high, some of them. The whole valley was
a charming garden when I last saw it, and
the huts of the Indians and a lone cabin were
the only improvements.
As will be seen by the map, I have thus
briefly touched upon a number of the chief features
of a region which it is proposed to reserve out of the public
domain for the use and
recreation of the people. A bill has already
been introduced in Congress by Mr. Vandever creating
a national park about the
reservation which the State now holds in trust for
the people. It is very desirable that the new
reservation should at least extend to the limits
indicated by the map, and the bill cannot too
quickly become a law. Unless reserved or protected
the whole region will soon or late be
devastated by lumbermen and sheepmen, and
so of course be made unfit for use as a pleasure
ground. Already it is with great difficulty that
campers, even in the most remote parts of the
proposed reservation and in those difficult
of access, can find grass enough to keep their
animals from starving; the ground is already
being gnawed and trampled into a desert
condition, and when the region shall be
stripped of its forests the ruin will be complete.
Even the Yosemite will then suffer in
the disturbance effected on the water-shed, the
clear streams becoming muddy and much less
regular in their flow. It is also devoutly to be
hoped that the Hetch Hetchy will escape such
ravages of man as one sees in Yosemite. Ax and
plow, hogs and horses, have long been and
are still busy in Yosemite's gardens and groves.
All that is accessible and destructible is being
rapidly destroyed--more rapidly than in any
other Yosemite in the Sierra, though this is the
only one that is under the special protection
of the Government. And by far the greater
part of this destruction of the fineness of wildness
is of a kind that can claim no right relationship with that which
necessarily follows use.
John Muir.
Map of the Yosemite region, showing present reservation, water-shed of the
valley, and approximate limits of the proposed national park.
[230K, 1080x940]
The above map represents the limits of the park
as proposed by Mr. Muir and as advocated before
the Committee on Public Lands of the House of Representatives.
As we go to press, the Committee
seems disposed to extend the north and south limits
eastward to the Nevada line, thus adding an equal
amount to the area here indicated. The honor of introducing
the National Park bill belongs to General
William Vandever of California.--EDITOR.
Transcribed by webmaster from copy in the UCSD Library, 1997.