the john muir exhibit - geography - important places
Places Important to John Muir
For a short list, see John Muir's World Travels.
Contents
- For updated informatioon about John Muir in Canada, see the extensive list of resources on John Muir in Canada on the John Muir Global Network.
-
Dunbar
, the birthplace of John Muir
- John Muir Birthplace Visitor Center Opens (March 23, 2003)
- A Boyhood in Scotland, Chapter 1
of The Story of My Boyhood and Youth, by John Muir
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Photo of historical plaque at Muir's birthplace
(44 kilobytes)
- Photo of John Muir Stone with quote 'Happy the man to whom every tree is a friend' at entrance to Lochend Woods. The stone is of Dunbar Marble from the old quarry to the south of the town. Photo by Jim Thompson.
-
John Muir and the United States National Park System
, a speech by Lawrence Downing sponsored by the Royal Scottish Geographical Society
Glasgow, Scotland, October 7, 1992 and Edinburgh, Scotland, October 8, 1992.
Off-site links:
- Scotland Organizations & Websites - John Muir Global Network
- Discover John Muir - A comprehensive website filled with resources about John Muir from a UK perspective, sponsored by the John Muir Trust in collaboration with the John Muir Birthplace. Includes a collection of educational resources including activities, games, films, art, programs, articles, photos, books, and events held in Scotland.
- Friends of John Muir's Birthplace
- John Muir Trust - UK's premier conservation organization
.
- John Muir Birthplace Trust
- The John Muir Way -
This 134 mile walking and bicycling path going from coast to coast across central Scotland encourages outdoor discovery, and promotes understanding of John Muir's legacy and philosophy by getting closer to nature.
- Discover Dunbar - Official Site
for the town.
- Alabama
- General
- On November 23, 1897, John Muir visited Mobile, Alabama. He enjoyed the fine forest of Magnolia trees, tupelo, and fine live oak. Upon learning that his botanical friends were unable to prevent destruction of these as road making in straight line ruthlessly cut through glorious magnolias and Tupelos, he wrote in his journal, "
This hurts my heart."
-
Alaska
-
General
- Muir visited Alaska 7 times: (1879, 1880, 1881, 1890, 1896, 1897, 1899).
- Harriman Expedition
- Harriman Expedition - In 1899, railroad magnate Edward H. Harriman organized a summer voyage to the wilds of Alaska: He converted a steamship, the George W. Elder, into a luxury "floating university," populated by some of America's best and brightest scientists and writers, including John Muir. Those aboard encountered a land of immeasurable beauty and impending environmental calamity. This was Muir's seventh trip to Alaska, to Wrangell, Glacier Bay, Sitka, and Prince William Sound. Muir made many friendships on the vessel, and would later write stories about this trip, about the people on board, and the Natives. See: Looking Far North: The Harriman Expedition to Alaska, 1899 by William Goetzmann and Kay Sloan (Viking, 1982).
- Harriman Expedition Retraced - On July 22, 2001 over two dozen scientists, artists, and writers left Prince Rupert, British Columbia on the Harriman Expedition Retraced. The Clipper Odyssey followed the itinerary of E. H. Harriman's sailing through the Inside Passage, the Gulf of Alaska, the Aleutian Archipelago, and northward through the Bering Sea, all the way to Nome. The Harriman Expedition Retraced was presented as a film and website presentation on PBS, (now available from Bullfrog Films), and as a book The Harriman Alaska Expedition Retraced: A Century of Change, 1899–2001 Edited by Thomas S. Litwin Foreword by David Rockefeller, Jr. (Rutgers University Press (March 14, 2005).
- Tip of the Iceberg: My 3,000-Mile Journey Around Wild Alaska, the Last Great American Frontier by Mark Adams (Dutton 2018) - In 2016, travel writer Mark Adams set out to retrace the 1899 Harriman Alaska Expedition, relying primarily on the state's intricate public ferry system, the Alaska Marine Highway System, supplemented by plane travel for the ocean portions, especially across the huge Bering Sea. this book melds the history of the Harriman Alaska Expedition, especially focused on John Muir and the other scientists aboard the 1899 steamship, and a fun and evocative form of travel writing into a seamless whole.
- Wrangell
- John Muir and the Fire on the Mountain by Wrangell History Unlocked Podcast (28 August 2021). On a stormy night in 1879, John Muir climbed the mountain behind Fort Wrangel, Alaska and built a fire so large it lit up the sky. The reaction of the surprised Tlingit villagers below has gone down in legend, misunderstood and maligned for over a century.
- John Muir's Places to Visit Around Wrangell (off-site link to Wrangell History Unlocked) May 17, 2024 - A photo essay of historical places around Wrangell. When John Muir came to Alaska in 1879 and 1880, he made Fort Wrangel his home. He intended to study glaciers, but he found himself making friends with missionaries, observing the Tlingit, and taking in the sights around Wrangell Island. Here are some of the places John Muir visited in Wrangell that you can visit today.
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Arizona
-
California
-
General
- Coulterville
- John Muir Highway -
The John Muir Highway was established to honor the legendary naturalist John Muir by developing visitor sites along the County Road J132 route of Muir’s 1868 walk to Yosemite from San Francisco. See also the John Muir-Yosemite Historic Highway.
- John Muir Geotourism Center - Educational organization, growing out of the John Muir Highway project, promoting exploring, learning, sharing, and preserving the natural environment for mental, spiritual and physical development, as exemplified in John Muir's life.
-
Daggett
- "John Muir and the Desert Connection"
, by Peter Wild
- "Homecoming:
Walter Muir, grandson of the naturalist John Muir, returns to the
in Daggett where he was born and spent his boyhood" Story
and photos by Stuart Kellogg, Daily Press (undated, off-site
link - deleted by owner) - Built by Helen Muir Funk in 1915 with money inherited from
her father, the famed naturalist John Muir, the Funk-Muir house in Daggett
has been a private home, a tuberculosis sanitarium, a chicken ranch,
and, from 1999 to 2006, the headquarters of the Augustan Society.
-
Mount Diablo
- Where John Muir Slept (off-site link deleted) - John
Muir slept on the summit of Mount Diablo, but had breakfast at the Mountain House Hotel that
existed during his visit in 1877.
-
Mount Shasta
-
Sierra Nevada
-
General
-
John Muir & I:
The Man, The Trail, and The Wilderness Ideal
, by Don Weiss
- John Muir Trail Wilderness Conservancy - a non-profit organization formed in 2018 dedicated to the conservation of the John Muir Trail (est.1915).
-
Lake Tahoe
- Muir first visited Lake Tahoe in October-November of 1873, calling it the "queen of lakes" and writing his friend Jeanne Carr that he had "sauntered through the piney woods, pausing countless times to absorb the blue glimpses of the lake, all so heavenly clean, so terrestrial yet so openly spiritual." He wrote further, "The soul of Indian summer is brooding this blue water, and it enters one's being as nothing else does. Tahoe is surely not one but many. As I curve around its heads and bays and look far out on its level sky fairly tinted and fading in pensive air, I am reminded of all the mountain lakes I ever knew, as if this were a kind of water heaven to which they all had come." [Source: Letters to a Friend, 1915]
- In 1878, he "Spent three delightful days at the Lake--steamed around it, and visited Cascade Lake a mile beyond the western shore of Tahoe." [Source: Letter from John Muir to Strentzel family, from Genoa, Nevada, July 6, 1878, in The Life and Letters of John Muir by William Frederic Badè Chapter XIII Nevada, Alaska, and a Home 1878-1880. He wrote about "Lake Tahoe in Winter" in the San Francisco Bulletin in 1878, reprinted in Sierra Club Bulletin, May, 1900, Vol. 3, No. 2, pg. 119, in which he wrote: "Lake Tahoe is king of them all, not only in size, but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters. It seems a kind of heaven to which the dead lakes of the lowlands had come with their best beauty spiritualized." He also warned that logging "is being pushed so fervently from hyear to year, almost the entire basin must be stripped ere long of one of its most attractive features."
- Muir circumnavigated Lake Tahoe by sail with a man named Parry in the summer of 1888, with his first camp being just north of Rubicon Point, visiting Emerald Bay, Cascade Lake, Fallen Leaf Lake, stopping for supplies on July 4th at Glenbrook, then on to Crystal Bay, Carnelian Bay, and ending at Tahoe City. At the end of this excursion, he left by train for Oregon and Washington.
- Muir returned to Tahoe several other times in his life, enjoying its "delightful" beauty, and large brown and silver trout (average 11/2 lbs. but some larger) with "very fine flavor."
- For the story of Muir's attempts to protect the Lake Tahoe region in forest preserves and as a national park, see Lankford, Scott, "John Muir: Tahoe National Park," Chapter 8 in Tahoe Beneath the Surface: The Hidden Stories of America's Largest Mountain Lake. ( jointly published by Berkeley, Heyday and Rocklin, Sierra College Press, 1910.
- See also Tahoe: From Timber Barons to Ecologists by Douglas H. Strong (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1984.
- Mono Lake - Muir wrote in a letter to Emily O. Pelton, in 1870 describing this huge lake east of the Sierra: "I never beheld a place where beauty was written in plainer characters or where the tender fostering hand of the Great Gardener was more directly visible."
-
Mount Ritter
-
Florida
- Georgia
- Illinois
- In 1864, Muir took a train from Madison, Wisconsin via Chicago on March 1, 1864 he crossed the international border at Windsor, Canada West, which later became the Province of Ontario, Canada.
- In summer 1867, after recovering his eyesight, Muir walked across Indiana and Illinois on a botanizing excursion, with his final destination Madison and the old homestead at Fountain Lake. His companion was eleven-year-old Merrill Moores, of the extended family of Catherine Merrill, who had nursed him during his convalescence from his eye injury. Avoiding the railroads, they walked across prairies not yet ploughed, covered with flowers, fossils and minerals. They hiked along the banks of the Vermillion River, passed through Bloomington, Illinois, and on north to Rockford, Illinois, where they caught a train to Wisconsin.
- Chicago: In August of 1867, Muir reported to his friend Jeanne Carr regarding a brief stop he had in Chicago that month: "I could not but notice how well appearances in the vicinity of Chicago agreed with Lesquereux's theory of the formation of prairies. We spent about five hours in Chicago. I did not find many flowers in her tumultuous streets; only a few grassy plants of wheat and two or three species of weeds,--amaranth, purslane, carpet-weed, etc.,--the weeds, I suppose, for man to walk upon, the wheat to feed him. I saw some new alga, but no mosses. I expected to see some of the latter on wet walls and in seams in the pavement, but I suppose that the manufacturers' smoke and the terrible noise is too great for the hardiest of them."
- In May of 1893, Muir visited the Chicago World's Fair; finding it "a cosmopolitan rat's nest." (In Wolfe, Son of the Wilderness). In a letter to his wife Louie, he expanded on his assessment: "I ...have seen the best of it though months would be required to see it all. You know I called it a cosmopolitan rats nest containing much rubbish & common place stuff as well as things novel & precious. Well, now that I have seen it, it seems just such a rats nest still, & what do you think was one of the first things I saw when I entered the nearest of the huge buildings. A huge rats nest in a glass case about 8 feet square, with stuffed wood rats looking out from the mass of sticks & leaves etc. natural as life. So you see as usual I am [always?] right! I most enjoyed the art galleries. There are about eighteen acres of paintings by every nation under the sun & I wandered & gazed until I was ready to fall down with utter exhaustion. The art gallery of the California building is quite small & of little significance, not more than a dozen or two of paintings all told – 4 by Keith, not his best, & 4 by Hill not his best, & a few others of no special character by others except a good small one by Yelland. But the national galleries are perfectly overwhelming in grandeur & bulk & variety... The outside view of the buildings is grand & also beautiful. For the best architects have done their best in building them while Frederick Law Olmsted laid out the grounds. Last night the buildings & terraces & fountains along the canals were illuminated by tens of thousands of electric lights arranged along miles of lines of gables, domes & cornices with glorious effect. it was all fairyland on a scale & would have made the Queen of Sheba & poor Solomon in all their glory feel sick with helpless envy." Letter from John Muir to Louie [Strentzel Muir, 1893 May 29.
- Early in July 1896, Muir joined the Forestry Commission in Chicago, and with Sargent, Brewer, Hague, and Abbot proceeded to South Dakota to inspect the Black Hills forests of yellow pine . Muir, looking upon the hills denuded by mining operations, fires, and illegal cutting, wrote home : "Wherever the white man goes, the groves vanish ." He continued on with the Forestry Commission to Yellowstone, Idaho, Oregon and Washington. After an interlude in August, Muir returned to the Forestry Commission at Crater Lake. He tours with them the southern Cascades, Santa Lucia coast range, Grand Canyon, and South Sierra.
- Muir lived in Indiana from the spring of 1866
through June, 1867, working in a carriage-parts factory. He spent what little
free time he had exploring the nearby forests for their botanical
treasures. When an
industrial accident temporarily blinded him, he wrote, "I
bade adieu to all my mechanical inventions, determined to
devote the rest of my life to the study of the inventions of
God."
- Indiana State Historical Marker - John
Muir in Indiana - View text and photos of maker dedicated July 2, 2004
- Indiana State Historical Marker
Text Annotation - References and citations
for Historical Marker from John Muir Global Network (off-site link)
- John
Muir Remembered in Indiana with New Historical Marker by Lori Hazlett, The
Indiana Sierran, (Fall, 2004) (off-site link) - Sierra Club Hoosier
Chapter members celebrate the dedication.
- John
Muir Marker to Be Erected in Indianapolis - The Indiana Sierran,
Spring, 2004. (off-site link)
- Background about the marker
- John Muir in
Indiana (PDF) by
Harold W. Wood, Jr. - required research paper submitted to Indiana Historical
Bureau in support of the Sierra Club Hoosier Chapter request for a commemorative
historical plaque in Indianapolis.
- "A Genius in the Best Sense: John Muir, Earth, and Indianapolis" by Catherine
E.
Forrest Weber,
in Traces of Indiana and Midwestern History, Vol. 5, no. 1, Winter
1993.
A review of Muir's life, with a focus on his early inventions and his time
spent in Indiana,
including his friendships with Catharine Merrill and her nephew Merrill Moores.
Nicely illustrated with Muir
portraits and his drawings of inventions. The issue of Traces that
includes this
article is available as a back issue from the Indiana Historical Society, 315
W. Ohio St.,
Indianapolis, IN 46202-3299; or by calling 1-800-IHS-1830.
- While in Indiana, John Muir met and was cared for in his illness by Catharine
Merrill, one of the first woman professors in America.
- "Among Kentucky Forests and Caves," Chapter One of
A Thousand-Mile Walk to the Gulf, by John Muir
- John Muir's Longest Walk by John Earl (book jacket summary)
\
- In Muir's Steps: Celebrating the 150th Anniversary of John Muir's Trek Through Kentucky (in 3 parts) by Andrew Berry (September 1, 2017; accesed May 16, 2024) - off-site link to Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest
- Retracing John Muir's Famous Walks and Travels
- Retracing John Muir's Thousand-Mile Walk to the Gulf By Chad Gilpin (Master's Thesis, 2017, University of Kentucky.) (PDF) (off-site link)
- John Muir's Southern Trek, 150 Years - Conserved Land Along Muir's Path Through Kentucky September 1, 2017 (off-site link)
- John Muir's Exploration in Kentucky by Ken Johnson (November 24, 2020, accessed May 16, 2024) (Off-site link to Bernheim Forest and Arboretum website)
- Hunnewell Arboretum - Wellesley, Massachusetts.
Muir visited this Arboretum, near Boston, in October, 1898, where he
met and had dinner with its founder, philanthropist and amateur botanist
H.H. Hunnewell.
- Arnold Arboretum
& Library - Harvard University, Jamaica Plain, Boston.
Muir was a close friend and traveling companion of its director, Charles
Sprague Sargent.
- Moosehead Lake - Muir visited this area near Greenville, Maine, in October, 1898. He described it inn a letter to his daughter Wanda as "a charming sheet of pure water 40 ms. long full of picturesque islands."
- Daniel Muir Gravesite - Elmwood
Cemetery, Kansas City - In 1885, John Muir visited Kansas City to see his
father, Daniel, on his deathbed. In late August of that year, John had "the
most powerful inner compulsion" he
had ever known, sensing that he must go east if he would see his father
alive. Muir gathered up his siblings in Portage, Wisconsin and nearby Nebraska,
insisting that they visit their father in Kansas City where he was visiting
Muir's sister Joanna and her family. The family had several days visiting
with the 80 year-old Daniel, who died on October 6, 1885, surrounded by
7 of his 8 children, including John, who later wrote an obituary about
his father for
the Portage Recorder newspaper. Daniel is buried in the historic Elmwood
Cemetery of Kansas City, Block N, Lot 57, along with 2 deceased infants
of Muir's sister Joanna and her husband Walter Brown. In May, 2004, the
Muir-Hanna Trust donated a headstone to
commemorate him.
- "John
Muir In Kansas City" by David Anderson, Sierra Club Thomas Hart Benton Group Chair.
- Writing in July 1896 to his daughter Wanda, Muir wrote "Nebraska is monotonously level like a green grassy sea - no hills or mountains in sight for hundreds of miles. Here, too, are cornfields without end and full of promise this year, after three years of famine from drouth. (From Life and Letters of John Muir. vol. 2, 1924.)
- On his first visit to New York in 1868, Muir stayed on the ship until he sailed to California. He wrote, "My walks extended but little beyond sight of my little schooner home. I saw the name Central Park on some of the street-cars and thought I would like to visit it. but fearing that I might not be able to find my way back, I dared not make the adventure. I felt completely lost in the vast throngs of people, the noise of the streets, and the immense size of the b buildings. Often I thought I would like to explore the city if, like a lot of wild hills and valleys, it was clear of inhabitants."
- Late, Muir wrote, "I can make my exhilarated way over an unknown ice-field or sure-footedly up a titanic gorge, but in these terrible canyons of New York, I am a pitiful, unrelated atom that loses itself at once."
- Years later, with his friend and editor Robert Underwood Johnson, he visited Central Park, where he was interested in the glacial scratchings on outcroppings of granite.
- In later years, Muir spent time in the Hudson River Valley, visiting friends John Burroughs and Osborn.
- John Muir Visited Grandfather Mountain 100 Years Ago (defunct offsite link to Grandfather Mountain)
- South Dakota
- Black Hills: Writing on July 6, 1896 to his daughters, Muir wrote: "South Dakota, by the way we came, is dry and desert-like until you get into the Black Hills. The latter get their name from the dark color they have in the distance from the pine forests that cover them. The pine of these woods is the ponderosa or yellow pine, the same as the one that grows in the Sierra, Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, and all the West in general. No other pine in the world has so wide a range or is so hardy at all heights and under all circumstances and conditions of climate and soil. This is near its eastern limit, and here it is interesting to find that many plants of the Atlantic and Pacific slopes meet and grow well together....
"
How wonderful you would think this hollow in the rocky Black Hills is! It is wonderful even to me after seeing so many wild mountains -- curious rocks rising alone or in clusters, gray and jagged and rounded in the midst of a forest of pines and spruces and poplars and birches, with a little lake in the middle and carpet of meadow gay with flowers. It is in the heart of the famous Black Hills where the Indians and Whites quarreled and fought so much. The whites wanted the gold in the rocks, and the Indians wanted the game -- the deer and elk that used to abound here. As a grand deer pasture this was said to have been the best in America, and no wonder the Indians wanted to keep it, for wherever the white man goes the game vanishes.
"We came here this forenoon from Hot Springs, fifty miles by rail and twelve by wagon. And most of the way was through woods fairly carpeted with beautiful flowers. A lovely red lily, Lilium Pennsylvanicum was common, two kinds of spiraea and a beautiful wild rose in full bloom, anemones, calochortus, larkspur, etc., etc., far beyond time to tell. But I must not fail to mention linnsea. How sweet the air is!" From Life and Letters of John Muir. vol. 2, 1924.)
Tennessee
- Texas
- On November 27, 1897, Muir took the train across Texas on his way back home from an eastern botanizing expedition. Noting that nearly all of western Texas was a splendid garden of Yucca lilies, grass, compositae, and sage, he thought it must be a fine sight in the springtime flowering period.
- A blogger for the Texas Master Naturalist program notes, "the ultimate icon of the true naturalist was John Muir. The idea that he never spent much of his considerable talent in the Lone Star state is our loss; he was drawn to places of—forgive me—extraordinary majestic beauty... I cannot think of any one single man who did more in his lifetime to force us to examine our relationship with nature."
- Muir visited the Salt Lake City area in 1877 with the U.S. Geodetic Survey, and wrote of the Mormon pioneer descendents, mountain storm scenery, Utah lilies, and bathing in the Great Salt Lake in several chapters of Steep Trails.
- Years later, in 1913, Muir visited the Mormon Tabernacle in Salt Lake City where he heard "memorable organ music," especially "Nearer, my God to Thee," which he described as "so devout, so sweet, so whispering low." (John Muir's August 1913 "Island Park" Idaho journal.)
- Mt. Mansfield in
the Green Mountains - highest peak in Vermont - John Muir wrote that he had
gone up "to the snowy summit" of this peak in October, 1898.
-
Washington, D.C.
- General
- "The Capitol he summed up as "fine grounds, acres of marble . " The Congressional Library he described as "gaudy in fresco, but tomby, sepulchral in blue vivid marble outside and in, overdecorated. "The Washington Monument he found "the finest of all the stone things hereabouts." But not until he reached the Zoo did he wax enthusiastic : "We saw lots of deer, buffaloes, bears, birds . . . . But the queerest and funniest were the kangaroos and a lot of coons . . . sunning themselves in the forks of . . . a big dead tree." (Wolfe, pg. 279).
- Muir
is Still Here, by Daryl Christensen and Kathleen McGwin - summary of book featuring Muir's boyhood ties to Marquette County, Wisconsin.
-
Fountain Lake Farm,
Boyhood Home,
near Montello (Buffalo Township, Marquette County):
- The video below is from Wisconsin Public Television In
Wisconsin - May 21, 2009 - Ice Age Trail - John Muir - 3 minute video clip
showcasing Muir's boyhood home at Fountain Lake Farm, near Buffalo Township,
Wisconsin, with Muir quotes and outstanding videography.
-
Fountain Lake Farm
-
Marker at Muir County Park, Fountain (Ennis) Lake
-
The Heart of John Muir's World:
Wisconsin, Family, and Wilderness Discovery
, by Millie Stanley
(press release)
- "John Muir's Wisconsin Days"
, by Dave Leshuk
- America's Secret: "We Had Muir" (about
the purchase of Fountain Lake Farm, John Muir's boyhood home, by a Wisconsin land trust. The newly protected area will adjoin the John Muir Memorial County Park and be part of a larger 1,400-acre natural preserve, which also includes the Fox River National Wildlife Refuge.
- Remarks by Spencer Black to the Natural Heritage Land Trust at the Celebration of the Purchase of Fountain Lake Farm (October 15, 2014).
(PDF)
- Wisconsin Dells - Now a popular Wisconsin vacation spot – a stretch of narrows on the Wisconsin River some twenty miles west of John Muir's boyhood home - John Muir visited and found the Wisconsin Dells to be a beautful botanical wonderland. On a letter to his sister (ie., Mr. and Mrs. David M. Galloway) in 1863, Muir describes the Wisconsin Dells with poetically: "The banks are rocky and romantic for many miles both above and below the Dells. On going up the river we were delightfully opposed and threatened by a great many semi-gorge ravines running at right angles to the river. . . . Those ravines are the most perfect, the most heavenly plant conservatories I ever saw.… The last ravine we encountered was the most beautiful and deepest and longest and narrowest. The rocks overhang and bear a perfect selection of trees which hold themselves towards one another from side to side with inimitable grace, forming a flower-veil of indescribable beauty. The light is measured and mellowed. For every flower springs, too, and pools, are there in their places to moisten them. The walls are fringed and painted most divinely with the bright green polypodium and asplenium and mosses and liverworts with gray lichens, and here and there a clump of flowers and little bushes. The floor was barred and banded and sheltered by bossy, shining, moss-clad logs cast in as needed from above. Over all and above all and in all the glorious ferns, tall, perfect, godlike, and here and there amid their fronds a long cylindrical spike of the grand fringed purple orchis."
- "Observatory
Hill - Sauntering in the Footsteps of John Muir "by Dennis McCann (broken offsite
link) Now a State Natural Area, Observatory Hill was one of John Muir's boyhood
haunts.
- Oregon, Wisconsin
- John
Muir Taught School at Lake Harriet school in Oregon, Wisconsin (broken offsite link)
-
Wyoming